OP-Ed & Features - Saturday, April 11, 2009 10:30

Remembering Sam Lord’s Castle: the tragic fairytale of Barbados’ best hotel

By Ashmita Maharaj, Deputy Editor

Here’s a fairy tale for you…

Once upon a time, Barbados was the it country for tourism in the West Indies.

Its economy was strong, its tourism product (honed from early colonial days) was the envy of other islands, and the standard of its accommodation was bar none.

That was then.

Then, as fairy tales go, I stayed in a castle in St. Philip, built by a notorious buccaneer who probably could have never had a clue that the mansion he founded on plunder could one day be one of the greatest hotels in Barbados’ stock. That castle, of course, was Sam Lord’s Castle, a 248 room mixed hotel/villa masterpiece which I and so many other ‘royals’ feel in love with.

That was the heyday of Barbados’ tourism supremacy, when a Bold & Beautiful crew filmed and stayed there, when it was not uncommon to neighbour a noted millionaire beside your immaculate seaside villa – the good days.

Nothing lasts forever, of course, and Sam Lord’s (then owned by Marriot’s) was sold to (presumably) a local company called Grants Hotels Inc. in 2001.

In short order, the quality and standards that seasoned repeat visitors grew accustomed to had gone, the Castle’s debt grew and its coup de grace was its sale to the CLICO Group of Companies in 2005.

The rest, as they say, is history and photos speak louder than words:

That video was yesterday. Let’s rewind to 2005…

Sam Lord’s Castle is set to arise from the ashes of bankruptcy and a two-year closure to once again become one of Barbados’ top hotel properties.

When the transformation of the famous property is complete, it will be one of this island’s largest hotel facilities.

The Sunday Sun has learnt that the 248-room facility would be transformed into a 650-room property – 450 hotel rooms and 200 condos – as part of the $54 million facelift for the historic St Philip hotel.

Leroy Parris, chairman of Clico Holdings Barbados Limited, the company buying the debt-strapped Sam Lord’s property, confirmed the upgrade and said discussions were ongoing to secure international branding for the property through a North American hotel chain¹.

That hasn’t happened yet.

Clico Holdings (Barbados) Ltd’s new Sam Lord’s Castle hotel and condominium venture could be replicated in the rest of the eastern Caribbean if it is a success. This was stated by Leroy Parris, executive chairman of the insurance and finance group, as he spoke at a Press conference held [in 2006] to introduce a new line of Clico insurance products.

Success?

The story continues…

During the question-and-answer period, Parris said he had a “tourism vision” for Clico, but was keeping it “close to his chest” until he had the opportunity to discuss it with executives from Trinidadian parent company CL Financial Ltd².

CL Financial Ltd?

Isn’t Clico Holdings (Barbados) “separate and distinct” from its parent company CL Financial in Trinidad³? The recent drama and PR response coming out of Barbados says as much, yet one can’t help but to  wonder if the failed restoration of Sam Lord’s Castle thus far speaks to a cash issue at home. Some will recall that there was even speculation that Sam Lord’s may be ready for Cricket World Cup 2007, which gives an idea of just how long the Castle was slated to be redeveloped.

Given that Clico touts the Castle among its high value assets which can be easily liquidated if need be, it takes little to imagine that it would not be very sagacious at this time to touch Sam Lord’s if liquidity issues necessitate its future sale by Clico. That said, to be fair, Mr. Parris recently said that Sam Lord’s Castle’s redevelopment is “still on stream”, albeit with no definite timeline and during intense questioning about whether Clico (Barbados) was facing a financial crisis.

I respectfully digress, and take Mr. Parris’ guarantee at face value.

Loving Sam Lord’s Castle as much as I and my fellow guests did, the watch and wait period seems like forever. Indeed, the longer that the Castle remains in ruin will not only be a shame to its legacy and the Barbados tourism product that was, it will also stand as a blight on Clico’s fiscal image at a time when it could ill afford any hint of financial distress.

Ashmita Maharaj · Goa, India

Born in Trinidad and currently residing in Goa, India, Ashmita Maharaj is a controversial Trinidadian and a ‘consummate West Indian’, with a fondness of cricket, CARICOM and Caribbean culture.

ashmita@antillean.org

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38 Comments

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Greece J. Bois from Attiki, Greece
Apr 11, 2009 17:03

Shame to be a closed castle.

United Kingdom Andy from Leicester, United Kingdom
Apr 19, 2009 7:05

Barbados is a real gem that people from the UK love to visit. This is the first I have heard of this castle and it really saddens me. This is the problem of allowing none Barbadian people or corporations to purchasea landmark property like this. I represent a small business in the UK providing live booking facilities to private villa owners who rent their properties and I would love to be able to help and restore this magnificent building. I am sure it could be restored to its former slendour and bring in additional revenue to the island. Maybe you should form a support group and lobby your toruist group to drive political will and make this happen?

Good luck!!

United Kingdom Graham Coles from London, United Kingdom
Jun 8, 2009 17:36

I stayed at Sam Lord’s twice in the 80’s when I was asked to survey it for a London insurer.
It was one of my first trips to the carribean, christened with a bottle of champagne in the jacuzzi at 2am, in the peace and quiet, looking up at the millions of stars. Boy, had I arrived!
I tried to re-visit recently and couldn’t understand why I couldn’t find booking information – now I know !!!
What a great shame, not only for a unique property but also the eager, friendly staff who always seemed to be enjoying their day even though they were working.
The best of luck for the future, but I can’t help thinking that somebody has missed a trick here.

United Kingdom Graham Coles from London, United Kingdom
Jun 8, 2009 17:38

For your information – it was one of the top rated hotels in the carribean as regards insurability on the world market.
How the mighty fall!

United Kingdom Graham Coles from London, United Kingdom
Jun 8, 2009 17:46

Actually, I take it all back.
Just looked at the video.
Nobody has missed a trick.
It’s the old ‘buy a listed building, let it rot, convince the local authorities it can’t be restored, tear it down and build condo’s’ ploy. Isn’t it ?
Or is it a listed building in B’dos that can’t be touched

United Kingdom John MacQueen from Devon, United Kingdom
Jun 25, 2009 18:26

I stayed at Sam Lords with my mother in 2002. We had been to a number of other Caribbean Islands and were greatly looking forward to Barbados which we had always felt was one of the premier Islands to visit. We travelled with British Airways holidays and paid a considerable sum for the holiday. The hotel had recently been taken over by Grants Hotels Inc and you could still see where the Marriott signs had been removed. All reviews on the net etc were very positive but its demise was obviously quick. We found ourselves sat next to people who had paid under £300 for two weeks holiday and were drinking lager from cans around the pool. The hotel staff were totally demotivated, lethargic and very rude. The food was poor and the drinks awful. Very disappointing. The rooms were actually quite good although hot water was patchy. The main castle had clearly been stunning and many fab holidays had there. Unfortunatley it was not being maintained or run by people who knew how to. There was a birds nest on the chandelier in the dining room that remained untouched for over a week. Only reception was accessible in the house and it was obvious the hotel was going down. I ended up having a massive row with the hotel manager who was clearly inexperienced and demanded BA pay to transfer us to the Almond Beach Club where we completed the holiday. I hope somebody buys Sam Lords soon and renovates it to its former glory.

United States John Hancock from Missouri, United States
Jul 5, 2009 16:11

I went on vacation there in the late 80’s and early 90’s and I can say without a doubt it was one of the premier resorts in the Caribbean. I’ve been to every island except for Cuba (I am a Yank after all, haha) and it was head and shoulders above most resorts. The rooms were clean and had a Caribbean decor, there was no television (always nice to escape technology and enjoy your holiday), and the pools and beach were amazing. Marriott does an excellent job running hotels and I was surprised when they divested themselves of this property. Local ownership is wonderful but larger resorts should be run by companies that live, sleep and breathe hospitality like Marriott, Hilton and Hyatt.

Norway Kristin from Oslo, Norway
Aug 2, 2009 19:29

It’s a tragic, to see this fantastic hotel closed. I was there with friends in 1994 and was now searching for a booking site. I really wanted to go back again to this beautiful place… Hopefully it will be possible in future…..
Regards from Norway

Barbados Fam. Stroek-de Miranda from Saint Michael, Barbados
Aug 6, 2009 18:43

We took our two boys for their first visit to Barbados. And of course Sam Lord’s Castle they had to see. But man were we disappointed when we arrived at the gate today. So sad to see this piece of Bajan inheritance in such an appalling state. A disgrace to all who love the island.
Clico by the way in my native Dutch language means garbage-bin, shame on them.

Australia terry proverbs from South Australia, Australia
Aug 12, 2009 22:09

I grew up in Barbados and lived in a home that was less than a kilometer from Sam Lords Hotel. As kids we had the luxury of this fine hotel as a part of our back yard. We would come and go and mingle amounst many lovely guest that stayed there. We would go on treasure hunts around the gardens as kids thinking that we would find some treasure!! It is so sad to see that this lovely piece of history has been left in ruin and no one cares about it or appreciates the history and what it has to offer. Shame on Clico, your lack of appreciation of such fine history you should not have a place in Business and show no respect for the people of Barbados. Shame on the Barbados Government for not stepping in and securing this property as a historic land mark for your people.

United Kingdom Helen Clare from Milton Keynes, United Kingdom
Aug 13, 2009 12:11

We visited here in 1993 and were blown away by the beauty of the place. We are going back to Barbados in November, and planned to go and visit again. I can’t believe what I have just seen. It seems scandalous that original Mansion has been allowed to fall into such disrepair. Surely somebody can come to the rescue of such a wonderful house and beautiful setting.

United States Douglas and Beverley Phillips from Massachusetts, United States
Aug 17, 2009 23:39

My wife and I vacationed at Sam Lord’s three times (twice when it was owned by Marriott – and it was magnificent; once shortly after the Grants takeover, when it was clearly going down hill). Nonetheless, it is one of the greatest properties in the Carribean.

To the people and GOVERNMENT of Barbabos:
(1) Please declare the entire Sam Lord’s resort property a national historic landmark. Please take it over by eminent domain. Force Clico to forefeit any possible money they could still squeeze out of the property. (They deserve to lose everything. What they have allowed to happen to the property is a crime!)
(2) Then offer a significant tax break to the best qualified bidder that will restore the castle and the property and reopen it as a hotel/resort, maintaining its original character and ambience (Allow some condominiums, if the winning bidder considers this to be a necessary part of their investment). Require the castle work to be a period restoration, based on its original materials and design.
(3) Define the qualifications for a “qualified bidder”. These should include (a) documented and verifiable proof of financial viability/stability/ability to complete the project; (b) a commitment to put the money needed for the restoration into an escrow account to be withdrawn only for work that, when completed, truly advances the property with appropriate quality craftmenship. In addition, (c)consider making the selected bidder a major hotel chain with proven ability to operate a classic resort facility with quality lodging, quality restaurants, quality service, quality ammenities, and banquet/meeting facilities.
(4) Require the hotel operator to hire and train local Barbadian people to staff the hotel (with the possible exception of the management team). During the restoration, advertise to find original Sam Lord Castle staff members. Require the bidder to hire them as consultants to bring back the quality once known and to provide insight of the original character of the property, including the contributions made by local artisians and beach sales people. The consultants’ knowledge of how the dining areas were run, beach barbeques were organized, evening entertainment was booked and operated, and pool side lunches were run should be followed to reinstate these services into the restored facility.
(5) Make a commitment to advertise the restoration and reopening of the resort to the world to aid in its rapid economic contribution to the country when it reopens.
(6) In return for the tax break, stipulate that the rate structure should not include a component for investment recovery, thereby enabling a broader market to be able to afford the restored property. The clientele that once supported Sam Lord’s Castle would like to be able to return to this property and once again support and enjoy it.

Barbados and the world need this treasure to come back. If people are needed to coordinate this entire effort, consider us.

United States Camille Avakian from New York, United States
Nov 5, 2009 0:38

This truly does bring tears to my eyes. My husband and I spent our honeymoon at Sam Lord’s in 2000 and are devastated by what’s become of it. It was one of the most magical places we’ve ever stayed – the grounds, views and staff were spectacular.

I honestly don’t believe Clico ever had any intention of using this property as it was. It seems quite apparent they intentionally let it degrade so they could level it – if they had tried demolishing it when it still was a proper national treasure, they would have run into much resistance.

What boggles my mind is how Barbadians are allowing this part of their history to be destroyed like this. It not only steals history from them, it takes revenue as well. We spend an average of $3,000-5,000 on a Caribbean vacation each year and would love to return to Barbados regularly, but no other property there seems to be able to offer what Sam Lord’s did.

What’s most upsetting is Sam Lord’s Castle is prominently written on the Google Maps version of the Barbados map. Does Google realize it’s importance but the government of Barbados doesn’t?

United States J. Smith from Kansas, United States
Nov 6, 2009 17:10

My wife and I stayed at Sam Lord’s when it was a Marriott property. We thought it was the greatest place in the world. It was a 70+ acre cruise ship that just stayed at the dock. There was no reason to leave as they had everything including a branch of a local department store (spent way too much money there).

It is hard to believe that someone would let it rot, but that seems to be the way in the islands and not just Barbados. We typically go to St. Thomas. The old Renaissance was coverted to an all inclusive, sold to a number of folks and now is said to be in the process of cenverting to time shares. This has been the story over the past four to five years. A beautiful property is just sitting there rotting away.

United Kingdom frank loyden from London, United Kingdom
Nov 12, 2009 7:53

I stayed at Sam Lords Castle in 2001 and fount the hotel and surrounding to be beatiful, i cannot believe it has been neglected and run down in this way. I am planning to go back to Barbados in the next 6 months and hope this lovely Castle is restored back to its former glory.

United States Glen Davis from New York, United States
Dec 8, 2009 18:21

I spent my honeymoon at Sam Lords in 1981. I have been all over the Carribean and nothing compared to my stay in Barbados. The Castle was head and shoulders above the rest. What I would give for a Sam’s Punch or a Lucy. Hope one day they restore the beauty again. Guess I will spend my 30th somewhere else. : (

United States DH from California, United States
Dec 22, 2009 16:19

I stayed at Sam Lord’s Castle in October 1983 during the Grenada Invasion Operation Urgent Fury. I was the USAF officer in charge of the video, film and still documentation of the operation and would fly in to Grenada on a C-130 and out again each night with the refugees at night. Each day the video and film would be sent to the US for the Joint Chiefs and the President to view. It is a long story, but suffice it to say that for me and those in my unit, having death during the day and paradise at night was an interesting experience.

Canada A Canadian Teen from Alberta, Canada
Dec 23, 2009 18:45

Went back to Barbados for the first time since I was a young child this summer. On the plane ride down, my brother and I talked of the marvels from old travel brochures and videos we were to see. As our car came up to the gate over the broken concrete, it didn’t seem possible that this deserted place could have been the legendary hotel we read so much about.

Then we saw the letters faded onto the gate, where the signs once must have stood. It brought tears to the eyes of everyone in our car. To see such a true treasure simply cast away without any care, and the deterioration that’s happened in such a short time, is mortifying.

We asked my relative what had happened later that night, but they still seemed under the impression that construction was starting and it the hotel wasn’t being left to rot. It’s a shame more Barbadians don’t see this, and that the government has some hands pretty far down their pockets.

United Kingdom CO from Cumbria, United Kingdom
Jan 21, 2010 12:53

I got married in Sam Lords Castle in 1999 and thought it an amazing place and it really is a shame to see the way it has been neglected, the Government of Barbados should use compulsory purchase laws and do something about this.

United States Aimee from New York, United States
Jan 29, 2010 21:54

I stayed at Sam Lord’s Castle in 1986 when I was 12. It was my first visit to the island, and the impression left on me was significant. I will never forget that place, the beauty and the wonderful people at the resort. I was recently thinking of returning and was heartbroken to see the demise of the splendour there. The people of Barbados deserve their history to be respected and honored. I hope someone with the means will do the right thing.

United States Kathy from Minnesota, United States
Feb 10, 2010 19:53

We visited the castle last week (Feb.2010) and we were convinced that it had been abandoned at least 20 years ago based on the level of decay. It was horrible. I ran from the house when bats took flight. The walls are splattered with feces.The amazing plaster ceilings are broken and scattered on the floor. Everything is totally trashed and overgrown. I can’t believe there is any hope of restoration at this point. It must have been something in it’s day! How sad.

United States Angela from Vermont, United States
Feb 14, 2010 2:06

I am saddened to see what has become of Sam Lord’s. My husband has been going there since childhood and took me in 1999. We have traveled many places but Sam Lord’s is one of our favorites. I was looking to go back with our 3 year old and came across the video of the ruins. It makes my heart break. I hope someone will return it to its glory

United Kingdom Mr J.R.Preston from Sheffield, United Kingdom
Feb 15, 2010 11:46

MY daughter was married in the grounds of Sam Lords in 2001 and after seeing recent footage of the building and grounds as it is today is heartbreaking. In 2001 the grounds were immaculate with stunning views of the ocean. The staff and locals were wonderful friendly people which made our stay even more memorable. Sam Lords Castle could once again be a jewel in the Caribbean if some entrepreneur with vision and forethought could see the potential. This could be a most loved and sort after holiday destination for many worldwide, but alas, as it stands today, leaves one feeling very very sad.

United States Alexandra Haines from Pennsylvania, United States
Feb 16, 2010 21:51

We stayed in one of the villas next to Sam Lord’s last week. Having never been to Sam Lords before I did not know what to expect. The beach is a scene from LOST. That said, although it was eerie and litter was everywhere, you could still feel how grand it must have been in its heyday. I do hope that someone who appreciates the history of the property will bring it back to its original splendor! I know that while our experience at the neighboring villa was tremendous, it would have been even more spectacular if the Castle was still standing and its beach still maintained.

Canada Pamela from Ontario, Canada
Mar 7, 2010 20:39

What about Sam Lord’s family? How do you think we feel? To see the property in such poor condition is completely disheartening. Unfortunately, I have never been able to visit the family ground, and by the looks of it, I won’t. Why take away a part of someone’s life? Please think about this. It’s taking away people’s identities.

United States Rosemarie from New York, United States
Mar 10, 2010 20:02

We honeymooned in 1973 at the Castle and seeing the condition it’s in today breaks my heart. The memories of such a beautiful location and facility will be with us forever.

United States Adam from Maryland, United States
Mar 13, 2010 23:35

How sad. My parents and I stayed their in the early 70s. I was probably 5 or so. Being so young in age my memories are a bit foggy but I do remember it being a wonderful place.

Canada george from vancouver canada from British Columbia, Canada
Mar 14, 2010 16:00

I think it is criminal to waste such a beautiful historic property. I hope with todays restoration technology it may be possible to restore all or at least some of the original building. The government should urge the owners to do the right thing . I’m a decendent of sam lords and my grandmother always said that he wasn’t everthing people made him out to be.

Canada Francine Richardson from Ontario, Canada
Mar 17, 2010 15:56

Sam Lord is my Great -Great Grandfather…I along with some of Sam Lord’s family live in the Toronto area … My Grandmother’s name was Irene Lord, she married my Grandfather George Richardson and immigrated to Canada in the early 1900’s .. I remember my family talking of Sam Lord and how he was a pirate when I was younger.. my grandparents use to visit Barbados every few years and bring back beautiful pictures of the Castle and the beaches and of family I have never met… and I agree with my cousin George from British Columbia ( Hi ) that this Beautiful Castle should be restored.

Canada Brittany from Ontario, Canada
Mar 18, 2010 19:37

Sam Lord was my Great Great Great Great Grandfather, and i don’t think he wanted his casltle to be like this. This is disrespectful, to Sam Lord’s memory. I feel as though the goverment should help in restoring the Castle, this was a beautiful spot where obvi, alot of people liked to vist and many people have many memories.

Canada Brent Smith from Alberta, Canada
Mar 21, 2010 23:07

Too bad I went to the Castle as a kid and It was Magicial………Now a Mess

United Kingdom Peter Prieur from Reading, United Kingdom
Mar 22, 2010 2:45

We stayed at Sam Lords in year 2000 for my 50th Birthday . We , my wife and 2 Daughters were absolutely delighted with the location and although some aspects of the resort were “a little tired” we had a fantastic time.

I was devastated to see the u tbe video and cannot understand how a property like the Castle could not have been preserved.

Come on you so called investors, Get it sorted.

Peter Prieur
UK

United Kingdom Nigel Tarrant from Telford and Wrekin, United Kingdom
Apr 9, 2010 4:36

I used to love this place, had fantastic family holidays there 10+ years ago. I’ve been a hotelier for nearly 30 years now and grew up in a resort hotel. If I had the funding it would be my dream project to restore it and run it to the same high standards it was when we used to stay there. It really was/is / could be a special place .So relaxing,classy and unpretentious all in one place, a great experience. I think about Sam Lords often and thank it for wonderful memories. Just need to plunder a passing ship to secure funding lol, or rename it Bank of Sam Lord can I have soem government baleout dosh please?

United States Jen from Georgia, United States
Apr 15, 2010 11:43

Hello,
I stayed in this hotel back in the 1970’s. I was a child. I recently vacationed at the Crane. I drove over to see the resort. I was stunned when I saw the falling down gates and the general disarray of the property. I was hoping to see it be rebuilt…but your video shows a building that is on the verge of needing to be condemned. How sad to see such a gorgeous place decay like that, simply from neglect. thank-you for sharing this.

United Kingdom simon & joy smith from Manchester, United Kingdom
Apr 27, 2010 8:54

we got married at sam lords castle in 2001 and have to say how wonderful it was magical comes in mind i really couldnt believe the video (shocking) come on get it sorted please…….. xx

United States chris from Illinois, United States
May 2, 2010 23:29

I spent a glorious week at Sam Lord’s castle for my honeymoon back in the 80’s and have thought of this resort often over the yrs. Today I found out from a guest at a wedding shower that Marriott sold the property and now is disaray. I viewed the brief filmstrip and am almost in tears. How could such a beautiful resort in the most gorgeous part of the world be allowed to be so demolished. It’s a shame and so senseless. Hopefully it can be resorted to its hayday.

United Kingdom helen from London, United Kingdom
May 7, 2010 16:01

i have been to sam lords since 1991 when they had a shark and monkys there wow what a fantastic place that was i loved it ,i have been going to Barbados for 15 years i am very sad to see this happen and a pieace of Barbados has gone …..very upsetting to see whats happened

United States peter from naples from Florida, United States
May 17, 2010 8:20

I visited the castle in the late 60’s and early 70’s. I am greatly saddened by its current condition. Shame!
The Sunday brunch by the pool with the steel band was not to be missed.

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